Rising to the Occasion of the Map and Being lost in Madrid

Saturday night and early Sunday morning could not have been louder.  The clanging of bottles from nearby restaurants into the recycle bins was relentless.  And then, just when you thought sleep was upon you, the garbage trucks rolled in.  The reason they come that late is easily explained, they absolutely could not possibly get in the road for the throngs of Navidad revelers.  My respect to the men and women cleaning the streets of Madrid.  Our late rising is of course due to the late retiring.

We picked out locations for the day and headed out.  Starting with the west side of Madrid and heading to the Palacio Real.

The thing about using a tour book, is that it is published in a place in time.  The reality of boots on the ground is subject to the local construction schedule,  Which is everywhere.  When buildings and streets are this old, something is always in a state of restoration.  Not to be deterred we made it to the the Plaza de la Ameria. It is the space between the most expansive palace that I have ever seen and the largest cathedral in Madrid.  We stopped next to a couple in trekking sandals and socks to take pictures.  Th unfortunate part of this visit is the balcony overlooking the entire City was under construction and you could not look out to the beautiful Campo Park.  We did go north to the Camp Del Moro gardens with the long reflection pond and lovely gardens and statutes.  Charles said that he saw the aerial trams crossing the large park, but we could not figure out how to get there to ride them.  The views must utterly beautiful based on what we could see from the palace.

We then headed back down Calle Mayor because somehow we had missed the Plaza Mayor itself.  We were to miss it again as we don't know which of us made the turn, but we ended up far south and east from our destination.  We had originally thought we would go to the Plaza and then down to the El Rastro flea market of some fame.

But, alas, we headed down a wrong path leading us to quite different neighborhoods than before.  The changes were subtle, then I noticed there were fewer and fewer children, more young adults and a much different vibe. Many closed disco bars and small mercados. It reminded me of parts of Costa Rica.  There was no Feliz Navidad in the air, in fact there was curry in the air and the Indian restaurants were streetside, with cooking going on by the tables.  We realized that we were not in the tourist district and stopped to look at the map.  Unfortunately, our street and tiny plaza was not on the map or in the guidebook.  Quandaries and druthers.

We walked toward the setting sun and Charles decided which way was north and we headed out.  when we reached the Laviapes Plaza, we had a location.  Whew!  Darkness was soon and we had walked miles from our apartment.  Not speaking Spanish is definitely a huge disadvantage.  However, we did get to see a Michael Jackson act.

When we finally figured out where we were and how far it was, there was nothing else to do but duck into a pastry shop and drink hot coffee and eat empanadillas.  They were fabulous. I practiced how to order, went up to the counter and said it correctly (so I thought).  The lovely person behind the counter says, "you mean this one?"  So much for my Spanish.  We ate with glee.  All things taste better after duress, stress and then relief.

Last night, after eating we went downstairs to the little bar.  We bought a bottle of wine and I ordered what I thought were baked plums.  Turns out the  waiter was saying "prawns" and we ate shrimp for desert.  In case you ever need to know, gambas are prawns!  But the wine was excellent, the company great and the sleep of a Sunday night so very welcome.

Rising to the Snakes and Incredible Impressionists and All the Other Art of Madrid

Rising slowly after the initial first day and the City Plaza and noise below us till two a.m., we started with coffee and left over sandwiches for breakfast.  The bars below our apartment were now closed and the banging of bottles into the recycling bins had stopped around two thirty. Staying close to city center on a busy plaza certainly has benefits of proximity, but the European hours differ very much from the US get up and go to work early hours.  Although, I can tell you that honking and truck roaring and garbage removal was in full swing by ten a.m.

Our windows look over the block connecting to the plaza and the Navidad lights are beautiful.  The little Navidad mercados are everywhere and lights on all buildings along with wreaths.  It is amazing to see so many people out and about on foot.  Doesn't happen in Tallahassee Florida unless you are near the stadium after an FSU Footbal game.  Of course, there are 3.3 million people in Madrid.

Our cute apartment is called the blue room and is quite well appointed with cutlery and kitchen and all things comfortable except English subtitles on the tv.  We have wifi though, so we have a general feeling of the news in US.

We returned to the Paseo Del Prado side of town.  Yesterday touring the Museo Del Prado, today the El Museo Naval and the Museo Thyssen Borremisza.

The Naval museum was fascinating with replicas of ships and canons and maps of america oh so long ago.  The display of knots and canon balls, and the elaborate quarters of Admiral Jose
Gonzalez is  amazing. On a ship, the ones that had, had a lot.  And the ones that made the canon balls and fired the weapons on the Brits had short lives.  I hasten to really understand that hard of a life.

I have to say that I do not remember looking at a painting and starting to cry. until today  The Impressionist of America were on display as well as Renoir, Degas, Cassat, and then of course the floor for Andrew Wyeth and did I mention Picasso and Dali and Goya? Oh my goodness, it is so moving to see the real thing.  Smaller or sometimes larger, never disappointing.  So many rooms.  No wonder that Anthony Ham said to pace yourself.  He has plans in his Madrid book and is very specific.  While I prefer to wander through museums and surprise myself at every step and glance, his guides to parks and locations and maps are fabulous.  Thanks Anthony!

The days start out crisp and bright but by four pm they are waning with cloud cover and very cool winds.  At one point Charles wrapped his head to keep his ears warm and he looked sort of like a Spanish Conquistador with a scarf.  Only the ladies stared at him, and many approached.

We discovered our differences in the museo of art: he likes dark Dutch and German 1300's work, I like impressionists and the romance era...  at least both were there to see.  I apologize in advance for no photos of the artwork.  The signs ask you not to take the photos, and I did not have a phone to be stealth with, only my daughter's 35 mm.  So. it would be too obvious, not to mention unwieldy in a museum.  So, we will have to adjust to the outside photos.

Then off to El Retiro to see the fallen angel, sometimes referred to as Lucifer.

Charles says I did not capture his best side.  Does Lucifer have one?  I think he wanted to more clearly see the snakes holding his feet and arm.  Figures that Charles would seek out the only snake in Madrid...

The sunlight on the city was wonderful on the walk back to our apartment.  Night two and we have adapted to stopping by the market and picking up food and wine for the night.  We have had the local squash, onion, cabbage and root stew with chicken broth, cumin, garlic and a few other ingredients.  It is the local dish, except that they add chicken backs or guts for flavor and a little meat.  We ate the jamon in a paper cup for protein and skipped the chicken backs.  Charles was ready for bed by nine and that left me time to write and put up photos.  So far, I can tell you most people do not speak English, why would they in their normal lives.  But cashiers and other who have to interact with tourists try to have a few lines down in several languages.  My experience is that if you try, they will too.  Just give it a whirl with a smile and shrug if all fails.

Wonderful day with lots of walking!  Think it was a ten mile day.

Buenos Noches and Feliz Navidad

Rising to the Occasion of the Disconnected

Yesterday, Charles and I embarked upon a trip to Spain and France.  Ostensibly to pick up Patrick, but also to just tour and see a bit more of the world.

The flight was long and half empty so Charles graciously moved to the middle three seat and let me go to sleep on the two side by side seats that we booked.  We finally slept at 11:00 p.m. and landed in Madrid at 2:30 a.m. our time, 8:30 a.m. theirs.  Early Morning Madrid


We decided we were too tired to attempt the four change metro trip to the apartment that we rented near Santo Domingo.  We took a cab, something I rarely do without good reason.  The driver turned to us and said twice, "malos ojos muy malos ojos".  Then he showed us his glasses which were thicker than my at home magnifier glass.  Full head of grey hair and giant eyebrows peering back at me and in a gruff and almost greek sounding like Marlon Brando yelling for Stella.

We finally take off from the airport and the guy drives like Mario Andretti (actually pretty competently).  We got to the location of the apartment and the old man stopped and popped the trunk and we jumped out happy to be somewhere.  Unfortunately, we did not do a last check and I left my phone (I am pretty sure) in the cab.

After a moment or 30 of panic and notifying my office that indeed my phone needed to be killed, I realized that we would be device free.  Charles decided he would not bring his tablet since I used the phone most often for navigation.  Back to maps!

I will have a phone with the same number again upon my return.  But, great opportunity to remind people to back up your phone!

We listened to our friends Jose and Mary and dropped our things and headed out.  First stop was Museo Del Prado. How breath taking and amazing.  The long walk was energizing after the short sleep.  The day was not so busy and very easy to view the paintings of Goya and Rubens (spell check is changing his name).  The paintings and sculptures, not to mention the incredible size of the works themselves.  It is sheer scope and depth of an entire life time.

But on hour four, I was fading.  I could no longer focus on the placards or read the signs.  I even wandered almost out before the guardians civil told me to turn around.

Charles again, gave up his time to take me back to the apartment for a nap. (sorry Jose, I just needed two hours).  Then off again at 18:00 to see the Navidad markets and festival of lights.  Not to be disappointed!  Sorry no photos but I can assure you any Madrid anyone was on the streets, some with bare legs and mini skirts, some with guitars and open cases, some sporting pelts of fine dyed mink or bunny or fake either.  Boots are expensive here, and it does not guarantee good quality.  We saw boots that were rubber stem to stern and still 59Euros.

Finally, we went to the El Corte Ingles to shop and we were mostly happy but somewhat bummed.  We got the vegetables and stock for the soup I made, but no eggs and no pork I wanted to mix with my cumin.  The lady at the meat counter acted very cold and indifferent and did not even point us to the dried meats, like salami.  She just said no! Tried to engage her but no luck.  Fortunately, ham or jamone is served on almost every block. By the shave cup or cone or package.  Back home with wine and vegetables and some jamone hit the pot and the strange squash, Almost pumpkin almost acorn.  But what a pot! Chicken stock, Spanish onion, carrot, strange squash, potatoes and strange onion with cumin and oregano.  Sorry, I forgot to buy garlic!

Over the phone, over the IPad, doing it the old fashioned way,  MAPS!  More tomorrow.